Shaving Without Irritation

BEAUTY · GLOBAL

Shaving Without Irritation

Preparation, technique, ingrown hairs and choosing a razor

Most shaving irritation is caused by technique rather than by equipment, and the corrections are straightforward.

Preparation

Shave at the end of a shower or after a warm cloth on the face, since hair absorbs water and becomes considerably softer and easier to cut. Shaving dry or first thing on cold skin is where most irritation starts.

Use a proper cream or soap rather than foam from a can, and build it with a brush or fingers so it lifts the hair.

Technique

With the grain first, not against it. Shaving against the grain gives a closer result and is what causes razor burn and ingrown hairs for most people.

No pressure — let the blade weight do the work. Short strokes, rinsing the blade frequently, and going over an area twice at most.

Map the grain, since it changes direction across the neck and jaw, and that is where most people go wrong.

Blades

A dull blade drags and requires pressure, which is what irritates skin. Change cartridges every five to seven shaves and safety razor blades every three to five.

Rinse and dry the razor rather than leaving it wet, which dulls the edge.

Afterwards

Rinse cool, pat dry and use an unscented balm. Alcohol-heavy aftershave stings because it is stripping skin.

Ingrown hairs

Common on the neck and in curly hair. Exfoliate gently a few times a week, do not pull skin taut while shaving, and consider shaving less closely or less often.

Do not dig them out. Persistent painful bumps or infection needs a doctor, and electric razors or trimmers suit some people considerably better.

Skin conditions

Eczema, psoriasis and folliculitis all make shaving harder and all respond to treatment. Shaving over broken or inflamed skin spreads infection, so give it a rest rather than working around it.

Change towels and pillowcases regularly, since both contact the face daily.

Electric and wet shaving

Electric shavers are faster, kinder to sensitive skin and less close. Foil shavers suit fine hair and daily shaving; rotary shavers suit coarser or longer stubble.

Clean an electric shaver regularly and replace the foil or blades on the manufacturer's schedule, since worn heads pull hair.

Body shaving

The same principles apply with more care — exfoliate first, shave with the grain, use plenty of lubrication and a fresh blade, and moisturise afterwards.

Replace or wash shaving brushes regularly, and let them dry bristles down.

Safety razors

Cheap to run and need a different technique — shallow angle, no pressure. Dispose of blades in a blade bank.

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