Fashion Watches and What You Are Paying For

ACCESSORIES · GLOBAL

Fashion Watches and What You Are Paying For

Licensed fashion brands, movements, what holds value and buying safely

Watches sold under fashion house names are made differently from watches sold under watchmaking names, and knowing the difference sets the right expectation.

Most fashion watches are licensed

A fashion brand typically licenses its name to a watch manufacturer, which designs and builds the watch. That is a legitimate arrangement and explains why several unrelated fashion names share the same movements and cases.

You are buying design and a name rather than watchmaking, which is a perfectly good reason to buy one.

The movement

Almost all are quartz, which keeps time to seconds a month and needs a battery every few years. That is more accurate than almost any mechanical watch.

Mechanical and automatic movements are the watchmaking proposition and cost considerably more, and are bought for the craft rather than for accuracy.

What holds value

Very little in this category. Fashion watches depreciate sharply, which matters only if you intended to resell. Buy one because you want to wear it.

Water resistance

Ratings are tested under static pressure in a laboratory. 30 metres means splashes only; 50 metres brief shallow swimming; 100 metres is the realistic minimum for swimming.

Never operate the crown underwater, and have gaskets tested if you swim with it.

Buying safely

Counterfeits are widespread. Buy from an authorised retailer, check the serial and model numbers, the weight and the finishing, and keep the box and papers.

A new-season model at a fraction of retail is not genuine.

Looking after it

Keep watches away from strong magnets and extreme heat, wipe the case and strap after wearing, and rotate straps rather than wearing one daily.

Have battery and seal work done by someone who pressure tests the case afterwards, since a badly reseated case back lets moisture in.

As a gift

Sizing is easy to adjust and taste is not, so keep the receipt and the papers together with the box.

Fit and sizing

Case diameter and lug-to-lug distance decide whether a watch suits your wrist, and lug-to-lug matters most on a smaller one. A bracelet should be sized so the watch sits on top of the wrist without rolling.

Most jewellers size a bracelet in minutes, and frequently free at purchase.

Servicing

Quartz watches need a battery every two to five years and little else. Have the gaskets checked at the same time if you swim with it.

Spotting a fake

Check the weight, the finishing on the case edges, the alignment of printing on the dial, and the serial number against the manufacturer. Counterfeits have improved and rarely get the fine finishing right.

Buy from an authorised retailer and use a payment method offering protection.

Sizing and care

Case diameter and lug-to-lug determine whether it suits your wrist. Have battery changes done by someone who reseals the case properly.

WHERE TO BUY

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