Leather Bags: Types and Care

FASHION · GLOBAL

Leather Bags: Types and Care

Full grain and corrected, checking construction, conditioning and repairs

Leather is sold with terminology that sounds descriptive and is frequently the opposite, and knowing it tells you how a bag will age.

The grades

Full grain keeps the outer surface of the hide intact, including its marks, and develops a patina. Top grain has that surface sanded off and a finish applied, which is more uniform and less durable.

Genuine leather is a marketing term for lower grades rather than a quality claim. Bonded leather is scraps bound with adhesive onto a backing and behaves like plastic — it peels within a couple of years.

What determines durability

Stitching density and whether the strap is stitched and riveted rather than glued. The lining, the zip quality and the hardware. Straps and zips fail long before good leather does.

Check the edges — painted and burnished edges last far better than raw cut ones on frequently handled areas.

Conditioning

Leather dries out and cracks. Clean with a damp cloth, let it dry naturally away from heat, and condition every few months with a product suited to the finish.

Test any product on a hidden area first, since conditioners darken leather. Suede and nubuck need a brush and a protector spray rather than cream.

Water and heat

Blot rather than rub, dry slowly at room temperature and never on a radiator, which cracks leather permanently. A protector spray applied before first use prevents most staining.

Storage

Stuffed to hold its shape, in a breathable dust bag rather than plastic, which traps moisture and grows mould. Not hanging by the strap, which stretches it.

Repairs

Straps, zips, linings and hardware can all be replaced by a cobbler or a bag repairer for a fraction of replacement.

Carrying it comfortably

A wide strap distributes weight far better than a thin one, and a cross-body strap beats a shoulder bag for anything heavy. Loaded bags carried on one shoulder cause neck and back problems over years.

Empty it regularly, since most people carry considerably more than they use.

Buying second-hand

Good leather bags last decades and the resale market is large. Check the stitching, the strap attachment points and the lining, since those are what fail.

Buying a bag that suits you

Check it holds what you actually carry, including a laptop or a water bottle if relevant, and that the opening is easy to reach into. A beautiful bag you cannot get things out of gets left at home.

Consider the weight empty, since structured leather bags are heavy before anything goes in.

Cost per use

A bag carried daily for five years costs very little per use.

WHERE TO BUY

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