Buying a Suit That Fits

FASHION · GLOBAL

Buying a Suit That Fits

The fit points, three-piece versus two, fabric by season and alterations

A suit is judged almost entirely on fit, and the parts that can be altered are different from the parts that cannot.

Shoulders decide everything

The shoulder seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder with no dent or overhang. It is the one measurement that cannot be altered affordably, so buy for the shoulders and have the rest adjusted.

The other fit points

The collar should sit flat against your shirt collar with no gap. The jacket sleeve should end at the wrist bone showing a little shirt cuff. Fastened, the front should not pull into an X.

Trousers should sit at your natural waist without a belt straining, and the break at the shoe is a matter of preference rather than a rule.

Three-piece or two

A waistcoat adds formality and warmth and gives you a second look when the jacket comes off, which suits weddings and long days. It must fit closely and cover the trouser waistband entirely.

For everyday business wear, two pieces are more versatile, since a jacket and trousers can be worn separately.

Fabric by season

Weight in grams tells you when to wear it. Around 230 to 260 is a summer cloth, 280 to 320 is year-round, and above 340 is winter. Wool is the default for good reason — it breathes and recovers from creasing.

Linen is coolest and creases enormously. High synthetic content is cheap, traps heat and cannot be pressed properly.

Alterations

Sleeve length, waist suppression, trouser length and taper are routine and inexpensive. Budget around ten percent of the price and find a tailor before you need one.

Shirts and shoes

A suit is judged alongside what is worn with it. A well-fitting shirt with a collar that holds its shape, and clean simple leather shoes, do as much for the overall effect as the suit itself.

Match the belt to the shoes and keep everything else deliberately simple.

Buying off-season

Tailoring is cheapest in end-of-season sales and most expensive in autumn, and nothing about the garment changes in between.

Hiring instead

For a single formal event, hiring gives access to better cloth and a proper fitting for a fraction of the price. It suits anyone who wears black tie or morning dress once every few years.

Book the fitting well ahead of wedding season, when suppliers run short of popular sizes.

Care

Hang on a broad shaped hanger, brush after wearing, and dry clean rarely. Steam the creases out instead, and rest a suit for a day between wears.

WHERE TO BUY

Ready to shop Santoro Milan? Use the link below to visit the official store.

→ Shop Santoro Milan — official site

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