Beard Care That Works

BEAUTY · GLOBAL

Beard Care That Works

Why beards itch, oil and balm, trimming and the skin underneath

Most beard problems are skin problems, and treating the hair while ignoring what is underneath is why they persist.

The itch is skin, not hair

Early growth itches because cut hairs are sharp and because the skin underneath dries out. Washing with ordinary shampoo strips it further, which makes it worse.

Use a gentle beard wash or a mild cleanser two or three times a week rather than daily, and moisturise the skin underneath.

Oil and balm do different jobs

Oil absorbs into the skin and the hair, softening both, and is the more important of the two. Balm contains wax and butter and sits on the surface, adding hold and taming stray hairs.

Apply oil to damp skin after washing, working it into the skin rather than only through the hair. A few drops is enough for a short beard.

Brushing

A boar bristle brush distributes oil and trains the growth direction, and a wide-tooth comb detangles longer beards. Brush downwards from the skin outwards.

Trimming

Trim dry rather than wet, since wet hair is longer and you will take too much. Define the neckline about one to two finger widths above the Adam's apple rather than along the jaw.

Leave the cheek line largely alone until the beard has grown in, since it usually finds its own shape.

Patchy growth

Largely genetic. Giving it four to six weeks before judging is the most useful advice, since patches frequently fill as surrounding hair lengthens.

Shaving the neck and edges

Shave with the grain rather than against it around the neck, since that is where ingrown hairs and irritation start. A sharp blade and a proper cream matter more than the razor.

Rinse cool and moisturise afterwards, and give irritated skin a day off rather than shaving over it.

Keeping it clean

Food and product build up in a beard. Rinse after meals, wash a few times a week and dry properly, since a damp beard is where smells start.

Products worth having

A gentle wash, an oil, a comb or brush and a decent trimmer. Balm and wax are for hold and styling rather than health, and most people need far less product than they buy.

Check for fragrance if your skin reacts, since it is among the leading causes of contact allergy in cosmetics.

Growing one out

The first two to four weeks are the worst for itch and appearance. Moisturising the skin and leaving the edges alone gets most people through it.

Skin conditions

Persistent flaking, painful bumps or ingrown hairs may be seborrhoeic dermatitis or folliculitis, which respond to treatment. See a doctor rather than buying more products.

Sunscreen still applies — a beard offers little ultraviolet protection.

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