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Bond Builders and Hair Masques
Bond Builders and Hair Masques
BEAUTY · GLOBAL
Bond Builders and Hair Masques
What bond repair actually does, masques versus conditioners, and damaged hair
Hair treatments are marketed as repair, and hair is not living tissue so nothing genuinely repairs it. What the better products do is more specific and more interesting.
What bond builders do
Bleaching and some chemical processes break disulphide bonds within the hair's keratin structure. Bond-building chemistry works by reconnecting or mimicking some of those bonds, which is a real mechanism rather than a marketing term.
It reduces breakage during and after chemical processing, which is where it matters most. It does not undo heat damage or split ends.
Masques and conditioners
Conditioners coat the hair, smooth the cuticle and reduce friction, which makes hair feel and behave better. Masques are the same principle with a higher concentration and longer contact time.
That is a genuine benefit and it is cosmetic rather than structural. It washes out.
Protein and moisture
Protein treatments temporarily fill gaps in a damaged cuticle and too much makes hair stiff and brittle. If hair feels straw-like after a treatment, it needs moisture instead.
Alternating rather than choosing one is usually the answer, and very damaged hair needs less protein than people assume.
Using them well
Apply to mid-lengths and ends rather than the scalp, on damp towel-dried hair, and leave for the stated time. Longer is not better for most formulations.
Rinse thoroughly, since residue weighs hair down and is frequently mistaken for damage.
What actually prevents damage
Lower heat settings with a protectant, spacing out bleaching sessions, less friction, and regular trims, since a split travels up the strand.
Scalp care
The scalp is skin and responds to the same things. Persistent flaking that returns is usually seborrhoeic dermatitis rather than dryness, and it responds to medicated shampoos used as directed.
Leave medicated shampoos on for the stated time rather than rinsing immediately.
Buying sensibly
Buy small sizes of anything new, since hair products are very personal, and give anything a few weeks before judging it.
Washing and conditioning
Wash the scalp and condition the lengths, which is where the two products actually belong. Washing frequency is personal and washing less does not train the scalp to produce less oil, which is a persistent myth.
Use a wide-tooth comb on wet hair, detangling from the ends upwards, since wet hair stretches under tension and breaks.
Bleached and coloured hair
Space lightening sessions several weeks apart, use cooler water, and expect to trim more often. A bond-building product during the process reduces breakage more than one used afterwards.
When it is not the hair
Sudden or patchy loss, scalp pain or persistent scaling all need a doctor or a trichologist.
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