Gemstones: Hardness, Cuts and Choosing a Stone

JEWELLERY · GLOBAL

Gemstones: Hardness, Cuts and Choosing a Stone

The Mohs scale and daily wear, shapes, treatments and certification

A gemstone in a ring is knocked against things every day, which makes hardness the most practical consideration and the one least discussed in a shop.

Hardness and daily wear

The Mohs scale runs to ten. Diamond is ten, sapphire and ruby nine, and both suit daily wear indefinitely. Emerald is around eight and chips readily because of internal inclusions.

Opal, pearl, turquoise and moonstone sit low on the scale and are unsuitable for an everyday ring, however beautiful. They suit earrings and pendants, which take far less abuse.

Cuts and shapes

Round brilliants return the most light. Ovals and pears look larger for the same weight and can show a dark bowtie across the centre, which is worth checking in person.

Step cuts such as emerald and asscher show clarity rather than sparkle, so inclusions are more visible. Pointed shapes need protective settings, since corners chip.

Treatments

Most coloured stones are treated — heat for sapphire and ruby, oil or resin for emerald, irradiation for topaz. Treatment is normal and should be disclosed, since it affects value and care.

Fracture-filled and dyed stones need specific handling, and some treatments are not permanent.

Lab-grown

Chemically and optically identical to mined stones and considerably cheaper. That is a legitimate choice, and resale value is lower.

Certification

For anything expensive, ask for a report from a recognised laboratory stating carat, colour, clarity, cut and any treatment.

Settings and security

A stone is only as safe as its setting. Bezel and halo settings protect edges; high solitaire claws catch on clothing and wear thin over years.

Have claws checked by a jeweller every year or two, which costs little and is far cheaper than losing a stone.

Buying online

Colour photographs misrepresent gemstones badly, since lighting changes everything. Ask for a video under neutral light and check the returns policy.

Keep the certificate and the receipt somewhere separate from the jewellery, which matters for insurance.

Insurance

Home contents policies cap jewellery low, so list anything significant separately and have it revalued every few years.

Caring for different stones

Warm soapy water and a soft brush suits diamond, sapphire and ruby. Wipe pearls and opals with a damp cloth only, and keep turquoise and emerald away from heat, solvents and ultrasonic cleaners.

Take rings off for cleaning, gardening, swimming and the gym, since chlorine and household chemicals attack both stones and settings.

Store pieces separately in soft pouches, since harder stones scratch softer ones.

Care

Warm soapy water and a soft brush for hard stones. Never use ultrasonic cleaners on emerald, opal, pearl or anything fracture-filled.

WHERE TO BUY

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