Buying and Caring for Knitwear

FASHION · UNITED KINGDOM

Buying and Caring for Knitwear

Wool types and gauge, what causes pilling, washing and storing

Knitwear is where fibre quality shows most obviously, and the care instructions make more difference to how long a jumper lasts than the price does.

The wools

Merino is fine, soft and regulates temperature well. Lambswool is warmer and slightly coarser. Cashmere is the softest and least durable. Shetland is hard-wearing and traditional.

Check the composition label. A small percentage of cashmere in a blend contributes very little beyond the word on the label.

Gauge and weight

Gauge describes how fine the knit is. Fine gauge suits layering under a jacket; chunky knits are warmer and heavier. Weight in grams tells you more than the description.

Pilling

Short fibres working loose and tangling, caused by friction rather than poor quality — though longer staple fibres pill less. It is worst in the first few wears and at points of rubbing.

A fabric shaver or a comb removes pills in a couple of minutes and improves a jumper enormously. Do not pull them off, which drags the fibre.

Washing

Less often than you think. Air knitwear between wears and spot clean rather than washing after every use, since washing is what wears it.

Hand wash or a wool cycle, cool, with a wool detergent and no biological detergent, which contains enzymes that digest protein fibres. Never fabric softener.

Do not wring. Press water out, roll in a towel, and dry flat in shape away from heat and sunlight.

Storing

Fold rather than hang, since hangers stretch shoulders permanently. Store clean, since moths are attracted to skin and food residue rather than to clean wool.

Cedar or lavender in a sealed box, and check stored knitwear periodically.

Buying sensibly

Knitwear is cheapest in end-of-season sales and most expensive in autumn, and nothing about the garment changes in between. Buy a second of anything that fits particularly well.

Second-hand knitwear is excellent value, since good wool outlasts several owners. Check the underarms and elbows, which wear first.

Moths

Moth larvae eat protein fibres and are attracted to skin oils and food residue rather than to clean wool. Wash or air knitwear before storing, vacuum wardrobes and drawers, and use sealed boxes for long storage.

Freezing an infested item for a few days kills larvae and eggs.

Blends

A little nylon in a wool blend improves durability considerably, particularly at elbows and cuffs, and is a sensible compromise rather than a compromise on quality.

Repairs

Darning a hole takes minutes and keeps a good jumper for years.

WHERE TO BUY

Ready to shop Lyle & Scott? Use the link below to visit the official store.

→ Shop Lyle & Scott — official site

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