Acne: What Works and What Devices Can Add

BEAUTY · GLOBAL

Acne: What Works and What Devices Can Add

Why acne happens, treatments with evidence, light devices and when to see a doctor

Acne is a medical condition with effective treatments, and starting with the evidence rather than with a device saves months.

Why it happens

Oil production, blocked follicles, bacteria and inflammation together. Hormones drive the first, which is why it appears in adolescence and around the menstrual cycle, and why it is not caused by being unclean.

Scrubbing harder makes it worse, and there is very little evidence that specific foods cause it beyond a possible link with high-glycaemic diets and skimmed milk.

Treatments with evidence

Benzoyl peroxide and topical retinoids such as adapalene, used consistently for at least twelve weeks. Salicylic acid and azelaic acid help many people. Combination treatments work better than single ones.

Expect things to look worse for four to six weeks before improving, which is when most people give up.

Blue light devices

Blue light has antibacterial activity against the bacteria involved, and there is reasonable evidence from clinical devices for mild to moderate acne. Home units deliver far less energy, and effects are modest and require consistent use.

Use eye protection, and do not use light devices on isotretinoin or other photosensitising medication.

A routine that supports treatment

A gentle cleanser, the treatment, a light moisturiser and daily sunscreen. Skipping moisturiser because skin is oily causes the dryness people blame on the treatment.

Look for non-comedogenic labelling, treating it as a guide rather than a guarantee, and introduce one product at a time.

Body acne

Shower promptly after exercise, wash kit rather than rewearing it, and a benzoyl peroxide wash used a few times a week helps many people.

What to avoid

Harsh scrubs, alcohol-heavy toners, picking and layering several actives at once, all of which inflame skin and prolong healing. Changing product every fortnight is how people conclude nothing works.

Give any treatment twelve weeks before judging it.

Marks and scarring

Red or brown marks left after a spot are post-inflammatory and fade over months, faster with daily sunscreen. True scarring is textural and needs professional treatment.

Treating active acne promptly is the most effective scar prevention there is.

Makeup

Non-comedogenic products, washed brushes and removing everything at night. Makeup does not cause acne but dirty tools contribute.

Change pillowcases regularly, since they sit against the face every night.

See a pharmacist about over-the-counter options before buying a device.

When to see a doctor

Acne that is painful, cystic, scarring or affecting your mood warrants a GP appointment. Prescription options including antibiotics, hormonal treatment and isotretinoin are considerably more effective.

Picking is what turns a spot into a lasting mark, and treating acne early is the best scar prevention there is.

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