What an Expensive Moisturiser Actually Buys

BEAUTY · GLOBAL

What an Expensive Moisturiser Actually Buys

What moisturisers do, the three ingredient types, price and evidence

Moisturisers range enormously in price and rather less in what they do, and the mechanism is simple enough to assess any of them.

Three types of ingredient

Humectants such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid draw water into the outer layer. Emollients such as squalane and fatty acids smooth between skin cells. Occlusives such as petrolatum and dimethicone slow water loss from the surface.

A good moisturiser contains all three. Almost every effective product, at any price, is built on that structure.

Ceramides

Lipids that occur naturally in the skin barrier, and there is reasonable evidence that replacing them helps compromised and eczema-prone skin. Worth looking for, and they are in products at every price point.

What price buys

Texture, fragrance, packaging and how the product feels, which are genuine reasons to prefer one. It does not buy exclusive active ingredients, since the well-evidenced ones are widely available.

Independent testing has repeatedly found inexpensive moisturisers performing comparably to luxury ones on hydration measures.

Where money makes a difference

Sunscreen you will apply generously every day, and prescription treatment for a diagnosed condition. Those change outcomes; moisturiser maintains comfort and barrier function.

Fragrance

One of the leading causes of contact allergy in cosmetics, and it appears in expensive products as often as cheap ones. Fragrance-free is the useful label for reactive skin.

Building a routine

A gentle cleanser, one active, a moisturiser and daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is a complete routine. Adding products is usually what causes the irritation people then try to treat.

Introduce one thing every four weeks so you know what caused a reaction.

Reading an ingredient list

Ingredients are listed in descending order down to one percent, so anything near the end is present in token amounts. Look for glycerin, squalane, ceramides and dimethicone near the top of a good moisturiser.

A long list of plant extracts near the bottom is marketing rather than formulation.

Where to spend instead

Sunscreen you will apply generously every day changes how skin ages more than any moisturiser, at any price.

Skin types and textures

Oily skin generally suits a gel or lotion and dry skin a cream or balm, and most people need different textures in summer and winter. Combination skin frequently wants different products in different areas.

Look for non-comedogenic if you are acne-prone, treating it as a guide rather than a guarantee.

Patch testing

Apply anything new to the inner forearm daily for several days rather than once, since delayed reactions are common.

Choosing one

Match the texture to your skin and the season — gel and lotion for oily skin and summer, cream and balm for dry skin and winter. Apply to slightly damp skin.

Patch test anything new on the inner forearm for several days.

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