Choosing a Winter Coat

FASHION · GLOBAL

Choosing a Winter Coat

Insulation types, waterproofing, fit over layers and care

A winter coat is worn daily for months, which makes the insulation and the hood more consequential than the cut.

Down and synthetic

Down is the warmest insulation for its weight and packs small, and it loses almost all of that when wet. Fill power describes quality and fill weight describes quantity, and both matter.

Synthetic insulation is bulkier, heavier and keeps insulating when damp, which suits a British winter better than people expect. It also washes more easily.

Look for responsibly sourced down certification if that matters to you.

Waterproof, water resistant and showerproof

Only waterproof means waterproof, and it requires taped seams as well as a membrane. A hydrostatic head figure tells you how much water pressure the fabric resists.

Water-repellent coatings wear off and need reproofing when water stops beading.

The details that matter

A hood that adjusts and does not blow off, a storm flap over the zip, deep pockets that close, and cuffs that seal. A two-way zip lets you sit down comfortably in a long coat.

Fit

Try it over the layers you will actually wear, and check you can reach forward and raise your arms. Length is a warmth decision — longer keeps the thighs warm and restricts movement.

Layering underneath

A base layer that moves moisture, a fleece or wool mid layer and the coat over the top. Cotton next to the skin holds sweat and makes you cold as soon as you stop moving.

Extremities lose heat fastest, so a hat, gloves and proper socks do more than a heavier coat.

Buying

Coats are cheapest in late winter sales and most expensive in October, and nothing about the garment changes in between.

Waterproofs and everyday coats

A technical waterproof shell suits walking and cycling and looks out of place at a desk. A wool overcoat looks smart and is useless in rain. Many people end up with one of each rather than a compromise.

Wool coats benefit from a brush and a steam rather than frequent dry cleaning.

Fit

Shoulder seams at the edge of the shoulder, sleeves reaching the wrist bone over a jumper, and room to fasten it without pulling across the back.

Care and storage

Brush wool after wearing, spot clean rather than dry cleaning frequently, and hang on a broad shaped hanger. Store clean at the end of the season, since moths are attracted to skin oils and food residue.

Reproof waterproofs when water stops beading rather than replacing the coat.

Care

Wash down with a specialist detergent and tumble dry with dryer balls to restore loft, which is the step people skip. Reproof outer fabrics when needed.

Store hanging and loose rather than compressed.

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