Buying and Storing Spices

FOOD · GLOBAL

Buying and Storing Spices

Whole and ground, how long they last, storage and blends

Spices lose their character steadily from the moment they are ground, which is why the same recipe tastes different in two kitchens.

Whole keeps far longer

Whole spices hold their volatile oils for years; ground spices fade within months. Cumin, coriander, cardamom, pepper and cinnamon are all noticeably better ground as needed.

A cheap coffee grinder kept for spices, or a pestle and mortar, is the single most worthwhile addition to a spice cupboard.

How long they last

Ground spices are best within around six months to a year, whole within two to three years, and dried leaf herbs within a year. They do not become unsafe — they become dull.

Smell the jar. If it smells of nothing, it will taste of nothing, whatever the date says.

Storage

Airtight, cool, dark and away from the hob. The rack above the cooker is the worst place in the kitchen, and light and heat are what destroy them.

Never shake a jar over a steaming pan, since moisture entering causes clumping and mould. Spoon into a hand or a small bowl instead.

Toasting and blooming

Dry-toasting whole spices briefly before grinding, or frying ground spices in oil for a minute, releases far more flavour than adding them to liquid.

Blends

Harissa, ras el hanout, garam masala and curry powders vary enormously between producers, and each is a recipe rather than a standard. Taste before assuming a quantity.

Check whether salt is included, since many blends are substantially salt.

Salt and pepper

Pepper loses most of its aroma within weeks of grinding, which is the entire argument for a mill. Never put salt in a mill designed for pepper, since salt corrodes a steel mechanism.

Use coarse dry salt in a salt mill and never damp or fine table salt, which clogs or pours straight through.

Buying

Small quantities more often beats a large jar that fades. Compare price per hundred grams, and check whether a blend is mostly salt.

Building a spice cupboard

Start with what your cooking actually uses — cumin, coriander, paprika, chilli, cinnamon, turmeric and a decent pepper covers an enormous amount. Add specialist spices for particular dishes rather than buying a full rack.

Label the jars with the date they were opened, since nothing else tells you how old they are.

Fresh and dried

Hard herbs such as rosemary, thyme and bay dry well and suit long cooking. Soft herbs — basil, coriander, parsley, dill — lose almost everything when dried and are better fresh or frozen.

Freeze soft herbs chopped in oil in an ice cube tray rather than letting them go over in the fridge.

Buying

Small quantities more often, and look for a packing date rather than only a best before.

WHERE TO BUY

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→ Shop Gewürzland — official site

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