Men's Formal Shirts: Collars, Cuffs and Fit

FASHION · GLOBAL

Men's Formal Shirts: Collars, Cuffs and Fit

Collar styles, fabric weaves, the fit points and looking after them

A formal shirt is judged at the collar and the cuff, since those are the parts visible above and below a jacket.

Collars

A classic point collar is narrow and conservative and suits a narrow tie knot. A spread or cutaway collar is wider, sits better under a jacket and suits a fuller knot. A button-down is the most casual and should not be worn with a dinner jacket.

Collar height matters for proportion — a taller collar suits a longer neck. The collar should sit against the neck with room for one finger.

Cuffs

Single cuffs button and suit everyday wear. Double or French cuffs fold back and take cufflinks, and belong with more formal dress. The cuff should end at the wrist bone and show about a centimetre below a jacket sleeve.

Fabric weaves

Poplin is smooth, crisp and the most formal. Twill is softer, drapes well and creases less. Oxford is heavier and more textured and reads casual. Herringbone and royal oxford sit between.

Two-fold cotton uses twisted yarn and is smoother and more durable than single-fold at the same thread count.

Fit

Shoulder seams at the edge of the shoulder, which cannot be altered affordably. Enough room to fasten the collar comfortably, no pulling across the back, and a body that skims rather than billows.

Fit and alterations

A tailor can take in the body, shorten sleeves and move a button for very little, which transforms an off-the-peg shirt. Shoulders cannot be altered affordably, so buy for those.

Check the fit with arms forward, since that is when a back pulls.

Buying

Buy a second of anything that fits particularly well, since makers revise patterns quietly. Shirts are cheapest in end-of-season sales.

Collar stays and care

Metal stays hold a collar better than plastic and must be removed before washing. Iron the collar from the points inwards to avoid creasing the edge.

Store shirts hanging with the top button fastened, which keeps the collar in shape.

Ties and knots

Match the knot to the collar — a narrow four-in-hand for a point collar and a fuller knot for a spread. The tip of the tie should reach the middle of the belt buckle.

Untie a tie rather than pulling it off, which distorts the lining.

Keep two collar stays spare, since they are lost constantly.

Care

Wash at forty, hang immediately on a shaped hanger, and iron collar, cuffs, yoke, sleeves then body. Collar stays should be removed before washing.

Rotate shirts so each recovers, and replace when the collar frays.

WHERE TO BUY

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