Pearls: Types, Quality and Care

JEWELLERY · GLOBAL

Pearls: Types, Quality and Care

Freshwater and saltwater, judging quality, stringing and looking after them

Pearls are organic and soft, which makes them the piece of jewellery most often ruined by ordinary daily habits.

The main types

Freshwater pearls are cultured in mussels, come in many shapes and are the most affordable. Akoya are saltwater, round and highly lustrous, and are the classic white strand. Tahitian are naturally dark and South Sea are the largest and most expensive.

Imitation pearls are glass or plastic with a coating. A real pearl feels slightly gritty against a tooth edge and cool to the touch; an imitation feels smooth and warm.

Judging quality

Lustre matters most — a good pearl reflects sharp images rather than a soft glow. Then surface cleanliness, shape, size, colour and, in a strand, how well the pearls match.

Nacre thickness determines how long a pearl lasts, and thin nacre wears through to the bead beneath.

Stringing

Good strands are knotted between each pearl so they do not rub and so a broken thread loses one pearl rather than all of them. Restring every year or two with regular wear, and sooner if the thread looks stretched or dirty.

Care

Put pearls on last, after perfume, hairspray, makeup and moisturiser, all of which dull nacre permanently. Wipe with a soft cloth after wearing.

Never use ultrasonic cleaners, steam, ammonia or any chemical dip. Warm water and a drop of mild soap on a cloth is the limit.

Buying pearls

Ask what type they are, whether they are cultured or imitation, and whether they have been dyed or treated. Any reputable seller answers directly, and dyed pearls should be disclosed.

Buy in daylight where you can, since lustre is what you are paying for and shop lighting flatters everything.

Wearing them

Pearls benefit from being worn, since skin contact keeps them from drying out. Take them off for exercise, cleaning and swimming, particularly in chlorinated water.

Insurance

Home contents policies cap jewellery low, so list anything significant separately and keep a valuation elsewhere.

Pearls as a gift

Earrings and pendants avoid the sizing problem that makes rings risky, and a simple strand suits most people. Ask about restringing and whether the seller offers it.

Keep the paperwork, since type and treatment matter for valuation.

Other soft stones

Opal, turquoise, amber and coral are similarly soft and porous, and all of them dislike chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners and heat. Bezel settings protect them better than high claws.

Storing them

Flat, in a soft pouch, and never sealed in airtight plastic, since pearls need a little humidity or they dry and craze.

WHERE TO BUY

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