jewellery · Articles
Solid, Filled or Plated: What You Are Actually Buying
Solid, Filled or Plated: What You Are Actually Buying
JEWELLERY · GLOBAL
Solid, Filled or Plated: What You Are Actually Buying
The three tiers of gold jewellery, and which suits everyday wear
Jewellery listings use terms that sound similar and describe genuinely different products. Gold plated, gold filled and solid gold differ by orders of magnitude in how much gold they contain and how long they last. Knowing the difference is the single most useful thing when buying online.
Gold plated
A microscopically thin layer of gold applied over a base metal. It looks correct when new and wears through with regular use, often within months on a ring or bracelet that gets daily contact.
It is the cheapest tier and perfectly reasonable for occasional pieces or for trying a style you are unsure about. It is a poor choice for anything worn every day.
Gold filled
A substantially thicker layer of gold mechanically bonded to a base metal — typically around five percent of the total weight, which is many times thicker than plating. Properly cared for, gold filled jewellery lasts years without wearing through.
This is the value sweet spot for everyday pieces. It costs a fraction of solid gold and, unlike plating, survives actual wear.
Solid gold
Gold throughout, measured in karats. 24k is pure and too soft for most jewellery; 14k and 18k alloy it with other metals for durability. Solid gold has no plated surface to wear through, but repairs and resizing depend on its design and condition, and retains material value.
Sterling silver and the tarnish question
Sterling silver is 92.5 percent silver, marked 925. It tarnishes through reaction with air, which is reversible with a polishing cloth and not a defect. Store it in an airtight bag and tarnishing slows dramatically.
If you react to jewellery
Nickel is the usual culprit and appears in many base metal alloys under plating. If you have reacted to costume jewellery before, look for nickel-free, surgical stainless steel, titanium, or solid gold at 14k or above.
Getting sizing right
For rings, measure at the end of the day when fingers are largest, and account for knuckle width — the band has to pass over it. For necklaces, measure an existing chain you like rather than guessing at lengths, since the difference between 45 and 50 centimetres is very visible.
Resizing is straightforward on plain bands and difficult or impossible on eternity settings and inlaid designs. Check which you are buying before ordering a guess.
Cleaning at home
Warm water, a drop of washing-up liquid and a soft toothbrush handles most gold and hard stones. Avoid this entirely with pearls, opals and emeralds, which are porous or fragile and need only a dry wipe.
Everyday care
Put jewellery on last, after perfume, hairspray and moisturiser, all of which damage plating and dull stones. Take it off for swimming, showering and exercise — chlorine and salt water are particularly aggressive.
Check the metal specification on any listing before buying. If it is not stated, ask. Reputable sellers answer this immediately.
WHERE TO BUY
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