Lip Products: Formulas and Finding One That Lasts

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Lip Products: Formulas and Finding One That Lasts

Matte, satin and gloss compared, prepping lips, application and shelf life

Lip products differ mainly in how much pigment, oil and wax they contain, and that ratio determines comfort, wear time and finish.

The three finishes

Matte formulas contain more pigment and less oil, which is why they last longest and feel driest. Satin and cream formulas balance the two and need reapplying after eating.

Gloss has the most oil and the least pigment, giving shine and very little wear time. Liquid lipsticks that dry down sit at the matte end and are the least forgiving of dry lips.

Prepare the lips

Matte formulas cling to every flake, so gentle exfoliation and a balm well in advance is what makes them look smooth. Apply balm twenty minutes before rather than immediately, then blot.

Lip balm applied under a long-wear formula stops it adhering, which is the usual reason it slides off.

Application

Blot after the first layer and apply a second, which sets the pigment and doubles the wear. Blotting with tissue and dusting with a little translucent powder between layers extends it further.

A liner in a similar shade stops feathering and gives a base for the colour to hold to.

Dry and chapped lips

Lips have no oil glands, which is why they dry out faster than skin. Persistent cracking at the corners can indicate deficiency or a fungal infection and is worth mentioning to a doctor.

Avoid licking, which evaporates and dries them further, and use a balm with an occlusive rather than a purely flavoured one.

Choosing a shade

Test on the fingertip rather than the back of the hand, which is closer to lip colour. Natural lip tone varies enormously, and the same lipstick reads very differently on different people.

Ask for samples before committing to anything expensive, and check the returns policy on cosmetics, which is frequently stricter.

Sun protection

Lips burn easily and are a site where skin cancer is frequently missed. A balm with SPF matters on holiday and on the water, and it needs reapplying as often as sunscreen.

Building a small collection

One neutral you wear constantly, one bolder shade for evenings and a good balm covers almost everything. People consistently own more lip products than they use.

Note which formula you actually reach for, since the formula tells you more about what you will use than the colour did.

Shelf life and hygiene

Check the open-jar symbol, usually twelve to eighteen months for lip products. Never share lip products, and replace anything used during a cold sore.

Discard anything that changes in smell or texture.

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